Imagine you're standing right at the corner of Nguyen Dinh Chieu and Cach Mang Thang Tam streets, amidst the familiar, buzzing chaos of Saigon. You glance over, and the sight that greets you is enough to stop you in your tracks.
A statue appears, capturing the historic moment of the Bodhisattva Thich Quang Duc that shook the world on June 11, 1963. He sits there, serene in the lotus position, forever engulfed in a storm of silent, bronze flames. A profound question hangs in the air: Why? Why would a religion of peace and compassion lead to such a fierce, resolute act?
The answer isn’t found on this street corner. It lies hidden in ancient pagodas, down winding alleyways, and across 2,000 years of history. To understand this fire, we need to embark on a journey. And there’s no better companion for this ride than a vintage Vespa.
To understand a tree, you must first look at its roots. The same is true for Buddhism in Vietnam. For nearly 2000 years, its roots have grown deep into this land, breathing and transforming along with the nation itself.
One Pillar Pagoda - a prominent Buddhist architectural work of the Ly Dynasty
From the first centuries CE, Buddhism arrived in Vietnam and showed a remarkable flexibility, blending seamlessly with indigenous folk beliefs. Its golden age occurred during the Lý and Trần dynasties (10th - 14th centuries), when it became the "Quốc giáo" (national religion). Kings like Trần Nhân Tông were not only patrons but also profound Buddhist scholars. After twice leading his people to victory against the Mongol invaders, he abdicated the throne to become a monk, founding the Trúc Lâm Zen monastery. Though Confucianism was later favored at the royal court, Buddhism never vanished. It simply rooted itself even more deeply in the lives of the common people, setting the stage for its greatest challenges yet.
The culmination of those challenges, a moment where all of history seemed to converge, was the struggle for religious equality in 1963, where a man became a torch: Hòa thượng Thích Quảng Đức.
Thich Quang Duc's torch burns at the intersection of Nguyen Dinh Chieu and Cach Mang Thang Tam, District 3 (today)
His act was not an isolated incident. It was the result of a long process of oppression and the voice of a faith that had accompanied the nation through thick and thin. Before this earth-shattering event, he was a highly respected senior monk who had dedicated over 40 years of his life to practicing and spreading the Dharma, having built and renovated 31 pagodas.
The catalyst was the suffocating social context under the Ngô Đình Diệm regime. His government's policies blatantly favored Catholicism, creating deep inequality. The tipping point was the self-immolation of a Buddhist monk in Vietnam after a peaceful protest in Huế was brutally suppressed by government forces. Thich Quang Duc's final act was a last appeal for equality and peace, a non-violent protest of unimaginable power. The photograph of his calm demeanor amidst the flames, captured by journalist Malcolm Browne, won a Pulitzer Prize and fundamentally changed the world’s perception of the war in Vietnam.
Miraculously, after the fire consumed his body, his heart remained intact. The authorities attempted to destroy it again in a cremator at 4000°C, but it remained whole, thereafter revered as the "Undying Heart." It is not merely a relic; it is the ultimate symbol of compassion, the non-violent struggle, and the indestructible spirit of Vietnamese Buddhism.
The Immortal Heart of Venerable Thich Quang Duc
So, what kind of philosophy could possibly forge such a man and such an extraordinary act? Which school of thought does it belong to in the diverse landscape of Buddhism in Vietnam?
That selfless act, a moment of fire and stillness, was not born from a vacuum. It was the ultimate expression of a profound philosophy that has shaped Vietnam for centuries: Mahayana Buddhism (Phật giáo Đại Thừa) . To understand how a path of peace could lead to such a powerful sacrifice, our journey must go from the act itself into the heart of its guiding principles.
The Mahayana philosophy is built around the ideal of the Bodhisattva - enlightened beings who, out of great compassion, choose to remain in the secular world to help all living beings achieve enlightenment. Therefore, Mahayana offers a diverse range of practices to suit everyone's capabilities. Three main schools are most visible:
Pure Land Buddhism (Tịnh Độ Tông): The most popular among the laity, focusing on faith and the practice of chanting Amitabha Buddha's name.
Vajrayana/Tantric Buddhism (Mật Tông): Carries a mystical quality with its rituals and mantras, often integrated into the ceremonies of other schools.
Zen Buddhism (Thiền Tông): Emphasizes meditation to unlock inner wisdom. Its most special expression in Vietnam is the founding of the Trúc Lâm Yên Tử Zen monastery.
This isn't an imported school of thought; it was founded by a Vietnamese king in the 13th century: King Trần Nhân Tông. After twice leading his people to victory against the Mongol invaders, he abdicated the throne to pursue a monastic life. The core philosophy of Trúc Lâm is "engaged Buddhism," a powerful philosophy that connects the spiritual path with daily life, clearly reflecting the nation's spirit of self-reliance. Today, the Trúc Lâm monastery is experiencing a powerful revival, with large monasteries built across the country. This deep-rooted, native expression of Mahayana forms the main current of Vietnamese Buddhism.
Statue of King Tran Nhan Tong - the founder of Truc Lam Zen sect
But to fully grasp the spiritual landscape, our Vespa journey must take another turn, exploring the older, quieter stream that flows alongside it.
While Mahayana Buddhism forms the main spiritual current in Vietnam, it is not the only one. Our journey now turns to explore the other path, an older, quieter stream that flows alongside it: Theravada Buddhism (Phật giáo Nguyên Thủy). Though they share the same founder in Siddhartha Gautama, their ideals, practices, and cultural expressions reveal subtle but significant differences that paint a complete picture of faith in Vietnam.
Adhering closely to the earliest scriptures, this school focuses on the individual's path to liberation by becoming an Arhat - one who has attained full enlightenment through their own rigorous efforts and wisdom. It has long been the spiritual cornerstone of the Khmer ethnic community in the Mekong Delta, where the pagoda is the absolute heart of community life. Later, in the 1930s, Kinh (majority Vietnamese) monks traveled to Cambodia and Thailand to study, returning to establish a separate Theravada tradition for the Kinh people.
Candaransi Pagoda - the first Khmer pagoda in Saigon
A Simple Summary: Mahayana vs. Theravada
The Goal: A Theravada practitioner is like an elite swimmer, training to cross the river of suffering by themselves. A Mahayana practitioner chooses to stay and build a giant raft to carry everyone else across with them.
The Figures: Theravada focuses mainly on the historical Buddha. Mahayana reveres a vast pantheon of Buddhas and Bodhisattvas.
But perhaps the most profound form of Buddhism in Vietnam isn't found in any specific pagoda or scripture.
And so, our journey comes to its final, most important chapter. This is when we leave the philosophical concepts to truly "touch" the soul of Vietnamese Buddhism - something that has dissolved into the air, into every street corner, into the very way people live and think. These are the "cultural codes" that, once understood, will show you a very different Saigon.
First, just listen. The daily language is a mirror reflecting the collective consciousness. The word "Duyên" (a karmic connection or fated relationship) appears everywhere. It explains a chance meeting, a successful business deal, or a whirlwind romance, adding a touch of grace and acceptance to life's uncertainties. Likewise, the concept of " Nghiệp" (Karma) and the common saying "you reap what you sow" have become an invisible moral compass.
Then, look and feel. The compassion of Buddhism is expressed through incredibly simple actions. It’s the free iced tea containers on the scorching Saigon sidewalks, a small gesture from a homeowner to a thirsty stranger. It’s the culture of eating vegetarian on the 15th and 1st of the lunar month, a regular practice for millions to cultivate compassion.
The restaurant is packed with people on the biggest full moon days of the year.
And finally, to understand this culture most deeply, one must look to the heart of every Vietnamese home: the ancestor altar. A Vietnamese person sees no contradiction in visiting a pagoda to pray for peace in the morning and lighting incense for their grandparents at home in the evening. For them, filial piety and spiritual practice are two streams flowing into the same river, creating a unique identity that looks to the future without ever forgetting the past.
The story of Buddhism, in all its depth and diversity, is a vital chapter in the nation's rich spiritual life.
To truly understand this culture, you have to feel it. To begin this profound journey of discovery, there's no better way than from the back of a vintage Vespa, letting the Saigon wind and the city's stories find you. If you want to explore the history, culture, and rich spiritual life of the Vietnamese people, let us show you the way.
Vespa A Go Go has designed special journeys for curious souls like you. We invite you to join our tours: SEE SAIGON, SAIGON'S SECRETS, or CITY CODE 2: THE ANCIENT SPELL. These are more than just trips; they are keys that unlock the door to the true soul of this city.
A Vespa Rider's Guide to Buddhist Saigon: